In 1951, MS Subbulakshmi made her technique to Nalli Silks with a blue thread in hand, hoping to have a sari fabricated from the identical color. The color of the sari then specifically woven for her, was so distinctive that it went on to be known as MS Blue. Until date, folks stroll into silk sari shops, referring to MS Blue, searching for out the very same shade of inky, iridescent blue.
In a tribute to the legendary Carnatic singer, whose voice, and sartorial sense has impressed generations since, actor Vidya Balan collaborated with Chennai-based costume designer Anu Parthasarthy, who has labored on a number of movies throughout languages, for a photographic tribute to mark MS Subbulakshmi’s 108th start anniversary.
“Rising up, my mother would play ‘Suprabhatam’ sung by her, very first thing within the morning. My on a regular basis nonetheless begins along with her voice. For me, MS Subbulakshmi is a non secular expertise. Subsequently, this has been a labour of affection, and an honour to have the ability to pay tribute this manner,” Vidya says.
The concept for this undertaking, titled A Recreation of Iconic Kinds, started almost seven years in the past. “This got here from an informal dialog I had with Vidya, the place she was telling me how she would like to play the singer in a biopic, if the chance got here up. I used to be additionally eager on doing one thing out of the field, and saved coming again to this dialog we had,” Anu recollects, of their inventive journey. She had beforehand labored on Vidya’s costumes for Bhool Bhulaiyaa, and Guru.
“I used to be in a position to visualise Vidya as a youthful MS amma and started to work on the look. They each have equally lovely, pear-shaped faces. Vidya’s means to embody a personality utterly, additionally made her the best selection for this,” she says.
Having met MS Subbulakshmi up to now, Anu recollects being mesmerised by her grace and poise. “One thing that additionally struck me was how distinctive her sari drape was. It seemed like a 9 yards sari, however was really six yards. Her saris have been all in conventional, brilliant colors, and stay iconic to this present day,” she says.
Whereas she bought began with taking a look at photographs obtainable on-line and in books, Anu credit famend flautist Mala Chandrasekhar, the granddaughter-in-law of MS Subbulakshmi for her invaluable insights and steering via the method of placing collectively 4 completely different appears for the photographs, shot by Rohn Pingalay.
“Many photographs, for example, have been in black and white. However Mala ma’am helped me establish the best colors and shades for the saris. I learnt from her that the singer used to put on saris woven by Muthu Chettiar, a weaver from Madurai within the early days, and later, saris from Nalli Chinnasami Chetty,” she says.
The inventive journey concerned meticulous analysis by Anu for the saris she wore throughout the Sixties and the Seventies.
From various saris which are thought-about favourites, 4 have been chosen for the picture tribute, every vital in its personal manner. The enduring MS blue sari that Vidya wore was sourced from the unique weaver Nalli Chinnasami Chetty in Chennai. Whereas celebrated via the years, the distinctiveness of the saris worn by the singer additionally meant having to go the customized route, to get it recreated. Anu says that Subhashini Srinivasan, proprietrix and design head, The S Studio Clothes coordinated the weaving course of for the three different saris.
A singular color mixture, the magenta sari with an orange border was woven within the late Sixties, and worn by the singer for the 1968 Sadas at The Music Academy, Chennai, the place she was honoured with the celebrated Sangita Kalanidhi award. For the recreation sequence, the sari was woven by D Srinivasan from Sri Balavinayagar Silks in Kanchipuram.
The putting blue pearl sq. sari (muthu kattam sari), which as its identify suggests, options pearl squares on the physique. “In contrast to right now’s saris which have a broad zari or many traces of zari on the border, the saris of that interval maintained a extra simplistic model which added to its attract. This was a live performance favorite,” Anu stated, of the sari, which was recreated by weaver V Balakrishnan in Kanchipuram.
Of the favored Ramar Pacchai (inexperienced) sari with a mustard yellow border which was recreated by weaver D Srinivasan, Anu recollects struggling to seek out the best shade, and going via a number of samples earlier than zeroing in on the best colors. “Mala ma’am had an identical silk cotton sari, and gave me a chunk of cloth from it which I used as a reference. This can be a well-liked color as properly, one thing you may hear being requested for in sari outlets. The unique sari had an enchanting twin mixture of sea-green and middle-sea blue with a mustard oil border color,” Anu says, including that two weavers have been wanted to function the loom concurrently to realize these contrasting colors.
From the scale of the ring on her left ring finger, the a lot liked mookuthi or nostril studs she sported on her nostril, her hair in a bun adorned with flowers, and the precise shade of kumkum on her brow have been different points of the look that they labored on. Her easy equipment complimented the colourful, brilliant saris she used to put on. “MS Subbulakshmi’s easy stage persona would all the time shine via, and we needed to preserve this in thoughts whereas recreating her appears,” says Anu.
The photographic tribute and Vidya’s portrayal of MS Subbalakshmi isn’t merely a superficial imitation, however a deep appreciation for the singer’s artistry, the staff that labored on this tribute stated.
Revealed – September 16, 2024 12:50 pm IST