It was solely once we have been midway down the mountain and the solar was dipping romantically into the ocean that my boyfriend talked about the toxic snakes. Apparently Patmos is legendary for them. To not fear, he known as as he trotted off forward – they might solely assault if we disturbed the rocks. Nice, I believed, as I slid by way of a pile of scree, ripping the leg of my capri pants.
I started to query the knowledge of abandoning a superbly good path to tear down the aspect of a snake-infested mountain as we tried a brief reduce to a beachside bar. However there’s one thing concerning the Dodecanese islands that makes you adventurous.
Stepping again in time: Amy visits classical ruins at Kameiros on Rhodes
Perhaps it is because of the ease of leaping on a ferry and inside a couple of hours rising on to the pier of a special island, with its personal distinct character, panorama and historical past. You generally really feel as if you happen to’re nearer to the land of Homer’s Odyssey than to twenty first Century Greece.
We selected three islands – Patmos, Leros and Rhodes – to go to in eight days, a schedule that allowed time for solar, sea, sightseeing and snake-running.
After a four-hour flight from the UK, we landed in Rhodes, capital of the Dodecanese islands. This was additionally the centre of presidency again within the days of the Knights of St John, who occupied the area from 1309 to 1522.
Their legacy stays within the type of castles scattered throughout the islands, together with the spectacular destroy named after them that overlooks the city of Lindos on Rhodes.
Rattled: Patmos is legendary for toxic snakes – which solely assault if guests disturb the rocks
Maybe probably the most breathtaking is the imposing Palace of the Grand Masters, which dominates Rhodes Previous City. All turrets and buttresses, it was constructed – fruitlessly as issues turned out – to maintain out invaders from Turkey. Within the glorious archaeological museum you’ll be able to see cannon balls that have been fired over its parapets.
The outdated city that was as soon as the centre of Aegean commerce is now a horny jumble of vacationer retailers, hippy bars and upscale tavernas. It is extra laid-back than notorious Faliraki simply down the coast, however we nonetheless discovered ourselves dancing with locals to a reside band in a moonlit piazza.
The Ottoman legacy is distinct right here, with magnificent mosques and cobbled-street bazaars promoting all the things from hand-carved chairs to fig cake soaked in ouzo.
Many buildings have an Jap affect, with courtyard gardens and mosaics. Our room on the luxurious Spirit of the Knights Lodge included a hammam, whereas the breakfast featured a croissant the dimensions of my head.
Historical legacy: Castles are scattered throughout the islands, together with the spectacular destroy that overlooks the city of Lindos on Rhodes
With explorer’s zeal coursing by way of our veins, our subsequent cease was Leros, an island identified for its peaceable, pastel-hued fishing villages and hidden coves – and for being the Second World Struggle battleground that impressed the movie The Weapons Of Navarone.
Right here you’ll be able to discover underground tunnels utilized by Allied troops, whereas ghostly shipwrecks present an underwater museum for divers. Within the city of Lakki, the clock tower is frozen on the actual hour of the primary Luftwaffe raid. Regardless of its disturbing previous, it is a phenomenal island considerably off the vacationer path. Within the tiny city of Platanos we discovered a few of the greatest baklava in Greece, and honey-golden kataifi – one other fabulous pastry that melts within the mouth.
Off the vacationer path: Leros is understood for its pastel-hued fishing villages and hidden coves – and for being the Second World Struggle battleground that impressed the movie The Weapons Of Navarone
Patmos was our favorite island – it is skirted by crystal-clear waters and pine forests, with historical pilgrimage paths criss-crossing its inside. It is alongside these grime roads that Christians and vacationers flock to go to the Holy Cave of the Apocalypse, the place St John the Theologian conceived The E book Of Revelation.
We climbed additional up the dusty highway to the gorgeous, whitewashed village of Chora which surrounds the formidable and exquisite eleventh Century Monastery of St John; a fairytale fort constructed to guard its non secular treasures. After which, like heroes after our transient trek, we took the bus again to the harbour for pink mullet adopted by moussaka.
It is certainly what Odysseus would have accomplished, given the possibility.
Amy Shindler performs Brenda Tucker on Radio 4’s The Archers.
